I am not going to write about the Dongdaemun Market in a 2nd blog. While it's true that we spent a lot of time and money there buying fabrics and exploring the hell out of 1 serious 5 story maze of a building, we didn't venture anywhere in that market EXCEPT for the fabric building, so I don't feel like I really "got" the place. I don't think Teppy did either. That market is so big that it needs its own governing body and airport. Seriously. We never really knew where we were when we left the subway nor when we were over across the stream at the Cultural Plaza. We began, and ended, disoriented. Since we can't write about what we don't know, there will be no blog on the Dongdaemun Market as a whole. This little spiel will have to suffice:) Oh, I do want to add that IF you are in Seoul looking for fabric so you or somebody you know can make you a quilt, then the Dongdaemun Market IS your place. They understand 3 important words at the textile building: how, much, yard. Those three words are golden. We got beautiful fabric for our quilts for $3 to $7 a yard!
Ok, back to Gwangjang. WHY go to Gwangjang when we had already discovered both Dongdaemun AND Namdaemun? Once again, a market is a market is a market, right? WRONG! We heard there was more fabric over at Gwangjang AND I think it is the same place where Mary Christmas bought fuzzy socks in the drama Mary Stayed Out All Night. I could be wrong, but it felt like the right place. Since we were so close to the market after leaving Dongdaemun Market, we wanted to check it out before heading back home on the subway.
The first thing you notice when you walk into the Gwangjang Market is the food. It's everywhere. You can barely walk because ahjummas are cooking and operating food stands in practically every open spot. The smell that accompanies the food is sometimes pleasant and sometimes not so pleasant. It depends on whether or not you like seafood. Teppy and I do not, so the fish and other ocean creature smells got to us, but the mung bean pancakes smelled pretty darn good (and tasted good too!) There was so much food that I believe Gwangjang Market could be the answer to resolving world hunger. There is so much food that nobody, ever, anywhere, should be hungry. It sucks that the world doesn't quite work that way, though. I wonder what they do with that food if they don't sell it. Surely they can't sell it all, can they? Being the vegetarian that I am, I kept having sad moments thinking of all the animals that died to possibly end up in a garbage can. For what? Sigh. Another blog for another day.
After making our way through the maze of food vendors, we discovered more fabric shops. One in particular caught Teppy's fancy because she found a fabric there that she really loved and wanted to purchase so she could recover her dining room chairs. As luck would have it, the ahjussi that came out to assist her spoke great English. We were so excited because so far, nobody we ran into that day spoke any English other than "how much yard?" After conversing a bit, we discovered that ahjussi has two kids who currently live in San Franciso. He was a friendly enough chap and Teppy was feeling it, so Teppy decided to take a chance. Teppy knew that I really wanted a hanbok and since his store made hanboks, (GWANJANG MARKET IS THE PLACE TO GO IF YOU WANT A CUSTOM MADE HANBOK--HANBOK STORES ARE EVERYWHERE IN THERE---ALMOST AS MANY HANBOK VENDORS AS FOOD VENDORS--That is one of the market's claims to fame) she asked him if it was possible to have one made by Friday morning. We needed it by Friday morning because we were leaving Seoul Friday afternoon. It was Wednesday evening at 6 when we had this conversation. He called a woman over, spoke with her briefly, and she nodded that she could do it! He continued to translate for us and before long, I was picking out my fabrics, getting measured, and paying my $280! It was so exciting. From what I understand, my hanbok is on the cheaper side of custom hanboks. For instance, my material is polyester, not silk. My skirt is solid with no embellishments and the wrists of my jacket are embellishment free as well. That being said, it is still quite beautiful. I do not need a fancy hanbok. I will more than likely never wear it. IF I wear it, it will be for an international day at my school or just because Teppy and I want to dress up when we have a drama marathon next time we get together. Just having it in my closet brings me so much joy that I can't contain myself!
The morning we picked it up, the woman who made it for me had me try it on. After meeting with my approval (which wasn't hard because I would have loved it even if she messed it up!), she boxed it up for me, including a petticoat, purse, and tassle at no extra charge! The experience was so memorable, that I would put it up there as one of the most exciting moments for me in Korea...and it was a total last minute surprise!!!
IF YOU NOTICE THE PHONE NUMBER IN THE PICTURE OF ME WITH MY HANBOK AND THE PHONE NUMBER ON THE BUSINESS CARD, THEY DO NOT MATCH UP. NOT SURE WHY. BUT, IF YOU CALL THE NUMBER ON THE CARD, I'M SURE IT IS THE ONE AND SAME AHJUSSI AND HE WILL HOOK YOU UP!
After paying for the hanbok (cash only, folks!!!), we made our way out since it seemed like most of the shops were closing and just the food vendors were open. It had been a thoroughly exhausting, yet exhilarating day! Not only did we have a bundle of fabric for our quilts and Teppy's dining room furniture, but I had a custom hanbok made!
Final take: we arrived too late in the day to truly shop and experience the Gwangjang market. Our brief visit (less than an hour) was sweet, but not fulfilling. If you go to these 2 markets in Seoul on the same day, start early so you have time to enjoy them! We loved the Gwangjang Market for its variety of foods and most definitely for the English speaking ahjussi who made my dream of getting a hanbok a reality! I am including a photo of his business card below so if you are ever in Seoul and want a hanbok, you can go see him and give him your business!